Samsung Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve
Replacement valve when supply and screen are good.
Samsung dishwasher 4C means low fill. Check the shutoff valve, inlet hose, inlet screen, water pressure, and inlet valve before replacing parts.
Samsung dishwasher 4C means low fill. Check the shutoff valve, inlet hose, inlet screen, water pressure, and inlet valve before replacing parts.
Parts to price first
Replacement valve when supply and screen are good.
Replacement fill hose to clear kinks.
The 4C error on a Samsung dishwasher means the machine tried to fill with water and didn’t receive enough within the time limit. Most of the time this is a supply issue — a closed valve, a kinked hose, or a clogged screen — not a problem with the dishwasher itself.
| Code | Meaning | Severity | DIY or Call |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4C / 4E | Low/no water supply | Low | DIY |
| 7E | Waterwall reflector | Medium | DIY |
| LC | Leak detected | Medium | DIY |
When a wash cycle starts, the dishwasher opens its inlet valve and expects water to flow in. If it doesn’t detect enough water after a set time, 4C appears and the cycle stops. On some Samsung models this also appears as 4E — the same error with a different label.
Find the shutoff valve under the sink. It’s usually a small angle-stop valve where the braided supply hose connects to the water supply line. Turn it counterclockwise until it stops. If it was only partially open, this may be your entire fix.
Check the supply hose for kinks. Open the cabinet under the sink and look at the hose running to the back of the dishwasher. It should have gentle curves. Straighten any sharp bends.
Clean the inlet screen. Turn off the shutoff valve under the sink. Disconnect the supply hose from the inlet valve at the back of the dishwasher (have a towel ready for drips). Look into the inlet port — you’ll see a small mesh screen. Pull it out, rinse it under the faucet, and push it back in before reconnecting the hose.
Run a test cycle. Turn the supply valve back on, start a short rinse cycle, and check that the machine fills normally.
Test the inlet valve if 4C persists. With power disconnected, use a multimeter to test the solenoid terminals on the inlet valve. A working solenoid reads 500–1500 ohms. Open circuit (infinite ohms) means the valve has failed.
If the supply valve is fully open, the hose is clear, and the screen is clean but 4C still appears, the inlet valve needs replacement. It’s a straightforward swap — accessible from under the dishwasher after pulling it out slightly — but if you’re not comfortable with the repair an appliance tech can handle it quickly.
4C (or 4E) means the dishwasher is not getting enough water. It is a supply problem — a closed shutoff valve, kinked fill hose, clogged inlet screen, or a stuck water inlet valve.
Confirm the under-sink shutoff valve is fully open, straighten the fill hose, and clean the inlet screen at the water valve. These steps fix most 4C errors.
On a new install, a partially closed shutoff valve or a kinked fill hose is the usual cause. Confirm the supply valve is fully open and the hose runs freely.
If the supply, hose, and screen are all good, the water inlet valve has likely failed and needs replacement (about $30-$60).