Samsung Washer Water Inlet Valve
Replaces the failed solenoid valve when screens and pressure check out.
$45
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The 4E error on a Samsung washer means the machine tried to fill with water and didn’t get enough within the time limit. Before you call anyone, work through the checklist below — 4E is almost always something simple like a partially closed valve or clogged inlet screen.
Quick Reference
| Code | Meaning | Severity | DIY or Call |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4E / 4C | Water not filling in time | Low | DIY — under 10 min |
| 4E2 | Water temperature/hose reversed | Low | DIY |
| 1 4E / 14E | Water level sensor fault | Medium | DIY or Call |
What This Error Means
4E (sometimes shown as 4C on newer Samsung models — they’re the same error) tells you the washer didn’t detect water flowing in during the fill portion of the cycle. The machine waits a set amount of time, and if it doesn’t sense water entering, it throws 4E and stops.
This is not a washer problem in most cases. It’s a water supply problem.
Common Causes
- Supply valve not fully open — The hot or cold water valve behind the machine got bumped or never fully opened after installation.
- Kinked inlet hose — The hoses between the wall and the washer can kink if the machine was pushed back against the wall.
- Clogged inlet screens — Small mesh filters inside the hose connections at the back of the washer catch sediment over time. In hard water areas, these can clog completely within a year or two.
- Low water pressure — Samsung requires at least 20 PSI. Low-pressure situations happen in apartments, older homes, and areas with high water demand.
- Failed inlet valve — If everything else checks out, the solenoid valve inside the machine that opens to let water in has failed.
Step-by-Step Fix
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Check both supply valves. Look behind the washer. There are two valves — one for hot water (usually on the left) and one for cold (right). Both should be turned fully counterclockwise. Even one partially closed valve can trigger 4E.
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Inspect the inlet hoses. Pull the machine out slightly from the wall and look at both hoses. They should have gentle curves with no sharp bends. If you find a kink, straighten it and push the machine back with more space from the wall.
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Clean the inlet screens. This is the fix in about 60% of 4E cases.
- Turn off both supply valves.
- Unscrew both hoses at the back of the machine (have a towel ready — a little water will come out).
- Look inside the threaded ports on the back of the washer. You’ll see small circular mesh screens.
- Pull them out carefully with needle-nose pliers.
- Rinse them under the faucet and use an old toothbrush to clear any sediment.
- Press them back in and reconnect the hoses. Hand-tight plus a quarter turn is enough.
- Turn the supply valves back on and try the washer.
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Test water pressure. If you suspect low pressure, turn on another faucet in the house while the washer is trying to fill. If the washer fills when other faucets are off but not when they’re on, pressure is the issue. Contact your water utility or a plumber.
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Test the inlet valve. If all the above checks out, unplug the machine and use a multimeter to test continuity on the inlet valve solenoids (typically accessible from the back panel). No continuity means the solenoid has failed and the valve needs replacement.
Parts You May Need
- Samsung washer water inlet valve
- Washing machine inlet hose set
- Inlet hose screen filter replacement
- Water pressure gauge
When to Call a Technician
If you’ve cleaned the screens, confirmed the valves are open, and the hoses aren’t kinked — and 4E still appears — the inlet valve is likely bad. Replacing it is a DIY-capable job on most Samsung models (back panel, disconnect two hoses and two wire connectors, swap the valve). If you’re not comfortable with that, an appliance technician can handle it quickly.