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Whirlpool WTW5057LW Washer Problems & Error Codes

3 min read
⚡ Quick Answer

Most common issue is lid lock failure (LdL code), caused by detergent buildup or a bad lid-lock assembly that needs cleaning or replacement.

Difficulty Intermediate (DIY)
Est. time 15-60 min
Tools Multimeter , nut driver, screwdrivers

Whirlpool WTW5057LW Washer Problems & Error Codes — Overview

The Whirlpool WTW5057LW is a top-load high-efficiency washer in Whirlpool’s mainstream HE platform. It uses the same error-code system as other Whirlpool top-load HE models, displaying F# E# or F## system errors plus specific codes like LdL (lid lock), LF or F8 E1 (long fill), drn (drain problem), and HC (hose reversal). Field reports show this model most often fails at the lid lock, drain pump, and inlet valve, with recurring complaints about no-spin or humming, oversuds faults, and imbalance errors when overloaded or run with non-HE detergent.

Whirlpool’s published guidance says to clear any F# E# error by pressing START/PAUSE once, then START/PAUSE again to restart. If the code returns, the washer needs service. Most common owner-caused faults are reversed inlet hoses, closed water faucets, kinked drain lines, overloading, or using regular detergent instead of HE.

Jump to Common Problems

Most Common Problems on This Model

Parts That Commonly Fail

PartNotes
Lid-lock assemblyAmazon | Fails mechanically or electrically, triggering LdL and preventing cycle start.
Drain pumpAmazon | Clogs or burns out, causing drn error and no-spin complaints.
Inlet valveAmazon | Fails to open fully or at all, leading to long-fill or no-fill faults.
Drive beltAmazon | Breaks or stretches, causing hum-no-spin and F# E# motor errors.

Washer Error Codes for This Model

These codes apply to this model line:

When to Call a Pro

Call a technician if any F# E# or F## error returns after you clear it twice using START/PAUSE, if the lid-lock assembly needs replacement, if the washer hums but will not spin after you verify the load is balanced, or if the drain pump or inlet valve has failed. Replacing the lid lock, pump, valve, belt, capacitor, or motor requires disassembly of the cabinet and console and safe handling of live 120 V connections. If you see water leaking from the tub seal or bearing area, or if the washer walks across the floor even when level and properly loaded, those are signs of bearing or suspension failure that need professional diagnosis and repair.


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