Door latch switch
Common interlock fault part on appliance no-start errors.
Samsung washer DC guide for unbalanced loads, spin retries, leveling, shock absorbers, suspension rods, drum bearings, and repeat DC codes.
Samsung washer DC guide for unbalanced loads, spin retries, leveling, shock absorbers, suspension rods, drum bearings, and repeat DC codes.
Likely parts to price
Common interlock fault part on appliance no-start errors.
Higher-cost board to price after checking sensors and wiring.
Useful when faults follow intermittent connectors or communication errors.
Your Samsung washer stopped mid-cycle with a DC error. The drum won’t spin and the laundry is sitting wet inside. This is one of the most common Samsung washer codes, and most of the time you can fix it in under five minutes without any tools.
DC stands for “Dynamic Control” — Samsung’s label for an unbalanced load detection. The washer tried to redistribute the load, failed, and stopped to protect itself.
During the spin cycle, the washer monitors drum vibration. If the load is too lopsided, the drum starts to shake excessively. The washer will try three times to redistribute the clothes by adding a little water and tumbling. If the load stays unbalanced after three attempts, DC appears and the cycle stops.
This is a safety feature, not a mechanical failure. The machine is protecting itself from damage — an out-of-balance drum spinning at high speed can crack the tub or break the bearings over time.
Pause the cycle and open the door. Most Samsung models allow you to open the door mid-cycle by pressing Start/Pause and waiting a moment.
Redistribute the clothes. Pull everything out and put it back in, spreading items evenly around the drum. If you washed a single large item, add two or three similar-weight items to balance it.
Remove items if overloaded. If the drum was packed to the top, pull out about 20% of the load and wash the rest separately.
Close the door and restart the spin cycle. Press Spin or run a Rinse+Spin cycle. The machine should complete without DC.
Check the leveling feet if DC persists. Tip the machine slightly and look underneath. The four feet should all contact the floor. Adjust any raised feet by turning them clockwise to extend. Use a bubble level on top of the machine to confirm it’s sitting flat in both directions.
Test the shock absorbers if DC keeps happening with balanced loads. Open the washer cabinet (typically two screws at the back of the top panel, then slide the top back). The shock absorbers are vertical cylinders connecting the drum to the base. Push down on the drum — it should rebound smoothly with slight resistance. If it bounces loosely or you hear a clunk, the shocks are worn.
If DC appears on every load — including small, evenly distributed loads — and the machine is more than 4–5 years old, the shock absorbers are likely worn beyond DIY replacement. It’s a manageable repair but does require removing the front or rear panel of the washer depending on your model. If you’re not comfortable doing that, an appliance tech can swap them in about 30 minutes.