Samsung Dryer Heating Element
Replacement element when it fails the continuity test.
Samsung dryer HE error means a heating problem, usually a blocked vent, blown thermal fuse, or failed heating element. Start with the vent first.
Samsung dryer HE error means a heating problem, usually a blocked vent, blown thermal fuse, or failed heating element. Start with the vent first.
Parts to price first
Replacement element when it fails the continuity test.
Replacement thermal fuse, a common HE cause.
HE on a Samsung dryer means the machine detected a heating problem. Your clothes come out damp, the dryer runs but produces no heat, or the machine stopped mid-cycle. Before you order any parts, check the vent — a blocked vent is responsible for more than half of all HE errors and the fix is free.
| Code | Meaning | Severity | DIY or Call |
|---|---|---|---|
| HE | Heating error | Medium | DIY |
| HC | Over-temperature | High | Clean vent |
| No heat + HE | Blown thermal fuse | Medium | DIY |
HE can mean the dryer isn’t heating at all, or that it detected a temperature that was too high or too low. The machine shuts down to protect itself from damage and potential fire risk.
There are two versions of heating failure: no heat (vent blockage or failed element/fuse) and overheating (also vent blockage, where trapped heat triggers the overheat sensor). Both show HE.
For electric dryers:
Clean the vent thoroughly before anything else. Disconnect the dryer from the wall, pull it out, and disconnect the duct at the back. Use a dryer vent cleaning kit with a rotary brush to clean from both the dryer end and the exterior vent end. Confirm the exterior vent flap opens freely when you blow into the duct.
Check the lint trap and housing. Pull out the lint screen and clean it. Also reach into the lint trap housing with a vacuum attachment — lint packs into the housing itself.
Test the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is usually a small oval component on the exhaust duct inside the dryer, accessible after removing the back panel. Test continuity with a multimeter. A good fuse reads continuity (near zero ohms). A blown fuse reads no continuity (infinite). If blown, replace it — and make sure the vent is clean before you run the dryer again or the new fuse will blow too.
Test the heating element. Also accessible from the back panel, the element is a coil of resistance wire in a metal housing. Test for continuity. No continuity means the element has broken and needs replacement.
Test the thermistor. Located on the element housing, the thermistor should read approximately 10,000–50,000 ohms at room temperature. An open circuit means it has failed.
For gas dryers:
Follow steps 1 and 2 above, then:
Watch the igniter. Start a heat cycle and observe the igniter through the access panel (or remove the front panel). The igniter should glow orange within 30 seconds. If it glows but no flame appears, the gas valve coils are the problem.
Test the gas valve coils. Each coil should read 1,200–1,600 ohms. A coil that reads open or shorted is bad. Usually all three coils are replaced as a set.
If the vent is clean and the thermal fuse, heating element, and thermistor all test good, the control board may have failed. Board diagnostics require more specialized testing and are better handled by a technician. Gas dryer repairs involving the gas valve or supply line should always be done by a qualified technician.
HE (heating error) means the dryer's heat circuit is not behaving normally — usually a blocked vent, a blown thermal fuse, or a failed heating element.
Start with the vent: clean the transition hose and full duct. If airflow is good, test the thermal fuse and heating element for continuity with a multimeter.
A blown thermal fuse cuts the heat circuit and is a common HE cause, often triggered by a previously blocked vent. Replace the fuse and clear the vent that caused it.
Most commonly the thermal fuse ($10-$20) or the heating element ($40-$90), depending on which fails the continuity test.