Can I keep running the equipment with this fault active?

Generally no. Faults on Appliance units are emitted when a sensor, safety, or control circuit is outside its operating envelope. Running through an active fault risks compressor, heater, or control-board damage. Diagnose and clear the fault first.

What part is most commonly replaced for Whirlpool Dishwasher Heating Element Replacement - Signs & How-To?

The most frequently replaced parts for Whirlpool Dishwasher Heating Element Replacement - Signs & How-To are listed in the Parts Reference section of this guide with OEM part numbers and typical price ranges. Check the table for direct replacements.

Is Whirlpool Dishwasher Heating Element Replacement - Signs & How-To a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Sensor swaps, fan motor replacements, and condenser cleaning are typical DIY-level repairs. Anything involving refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage (>240V) work requires a licensed technician for both safety and code-compliance reasons.

Whirlpool Dishwasher Heating Element Replacement - Signs & How-To

Q: What does Whirlpool Dishwasher Heating Element Replacement - Signs & How-To mean?

Dishwasher won't heat water or dry dishes, heater circuit faults, or longer cycles. Replacing the heating element restores heat and drying.

Q: How do I fix Whirlpool Dishwasher Heating Element Replacement - Signs & How-To?

Follow the step-by-step diagnosis below. The most likely fix is identified by checking power, sensor resistance, and control-board signals in order — using a multimeter and the part numbers documented in the parts reference table.

Whirlpool Dishwasher Heating Element Replacement — What This Part Does

The heating element in your Whirlpool dishwasher raises the water temperature during the wash cycle and provides heat during the drying phase. It’s a tub-mounted resistive coil that runs on approximately 120 VAC and draws about 6–8 amps when operating. A functioning element typically measures 10–20 ohms across its terminals when tested with a multimeter.

Elements fail when the resistive coil breaks (open circuit), when the high-limit thermostat trips and stays open, or when terminals and wiring corrode. Whirlpool service information directs technicians to verify the complete heating circuit, including the hi-limit safety thermostat, before assuming the element alone is bad. The control may disable heating after detecting a fault and continue the cycle without heat until diagnostics are run and the fault is cleared.

Jump to Replacement Steps

Signs It Needs Replacing

Dishes come out wet or cold at the end of the cycle The element isn’t providing heat for the final dry phase.
Dishwasher runs longer cycles than usual The control extends wash time trying to compensate for lack of hot water.
Heater circuit error or fault code on the display The control detected an open heater circuit or hi-limit thermostat problem.
No voltage at the heater terminals during the heat step The control has latched a heater fault and disabled the circuit until diagnostics clear it.
Element tests open (infinite resistance) with a meter The resistive coil inside the element has broken.
Visible cracks, blisters, or breaks in the element coil Physical damage to the heater assembly means it must be replaced.

How to Replace It

Disconnect power to the dishwasher at the breaker or unplug the unit, and turn off the water supply valve under the sink.
Remove the lower dish rack and lower spray arm to access the tub floor.
Open the dishwasher door and locate the heating element terminals or mounting nuts on the tub floor (some models require removing the lower access panel beneath the door).
Disconnect the wire leads from the heater terminals and note their position for reassembly.
From beneath the dishwasher, remove the retaining nuts or clips securing the element to the tub and carefully pull the element out through the tub floor.
Insert the new heating element through the tub openings from above, using the new fasteners supplied with the replacement kit (replacement threads may differ from the original hardware).
Tighten the retaining nuts or clips from beneath the tub to seat the element and seal the penetrations.
Reconnect the wire leads to the new element terminals in the same configuration as the original.
Restore power and water, then run a short test cycle and inspect underneath for any leaks at the heater penetrations before reinstalling the lower access panel or toe-kick.

The Part You Need

Part	Notes
Dishwasher heating element assembly	Amazon \| Find your exact part number on the model and serial plate inside the dishwasher door frame. Whirlpool, KitchenAid, and Maytag dishwashers often share element designs, but verify fitment by model number before ordering.

If this part is failing you may also see one of these codes:

When to Call a Pro

If you’ve replaced the element and the dishwasher still won’t heat, the problem is likely in the high-limit thermostat, wiring harness, or control board. Whirlpool service guidance tells techs to run diagnostics, measure voltage at the heater feed (should be around 120 VAC during the heat step), and verify continuity through the hi-limit safety circuit. If you’re not comfortable working with live voltage testing or running the service diagnostic cycle, call a tech to trace the heater circuit and clear any latched faults in the control.