Can I keep running the equipment with this fault active?

Generally no. Faults on Appliance units are emitted when a sensor, safety, or control circuit is outside its operating envelope. Running through an active fault risks compressor, heater, or control-board damage. Diagnose and clear the fault first.

What part is most commonly replaced for Samsung Washer Water Inlet Valve Replacement - Signs & How-To?

The most frequently replaced parts for Samsung Washer Water Inlet Valve Replacement - Signs & How-To are listed in the Parts Reference section of this guide with OEM part numbers and typical price ranges. Check the table for direct replacements.

Is Samsung Washer Water Inlet Valve Replacement - Signs & How-To a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Sensor swaps, fan motor replacements, and condenser cleaning are typical DIY-level repairs. Anything involving refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage (>240V) work requires a licensed technician for both safety and code-compliance reasons.

Samsung Washer Water Inlet Valve Replacement - Signs & How-To

Q: What does Samsung Washer Water Inlet Valve Replacement - Signs & How-To mean?

No fill, slow fill, leaking, or won't stop filling? Replace the water inlet valve-the solenoid-controlled assembly that opens to let water into your Samsung washer.

Q: How do I fix Samsung Washer Water Inlet Valve Replacement - Signs & How-To?

Follow the step-by-step diagnosis below. The most likely fix is identified by checking power, sensor resistance, and control-board signals in order — using a multimeter and the part numbers documented in the parts reference table.

Samsung Washer Water Inlet Valve Replacement — What This Part Does

The water inlet valve is an electrically controlled component that opens to allow hot and cold water into your Samsung washer when the control board sends a command. Inside the valve, solenoid coils pull open small rubber diaphragms against incoming water pressure to start each fill cycle, then close when power stops to shut off the flow.

The valve fails when solenoid coils burn out, internal rubber seals wear down, or mineral deposits jam the moving parts. Over time these problems prevent the valve from opening when commanded (no fill or slow fill) or from closing completely when power is removed (leaking or overfilling). A failed valve that leaks internally will keep letting water in even when the washer is unplugged and turned off.

Jump to Replacement Steps

Signs It Needs Replacing

Washer will not fill at all You start a cycle but no water enters the drum, and the machine either times out or sits idle.
Fills very slowly or only cold or hot works Water trickles in instead of flowing normally, or only one temperature comes through because one solenoid channel has failed.
Water keeps running even when washer is off Water continues to flow into the tub when the machine is unplugged or powered down, indicating the valve is stuck open or the internal seal has failed.
Overfilling or not stopping fill on command The washer fills past the correct level or does not stop when the control board commands it to shut off.
Leaking at the valve body or hose connections You see water dripping from the inlet valve assembly at the back of the machine or pooling behind the washer.
No response to fill command despite supply faucets being open Supply valves are open, hoses are not kinked, and water pressure is good, but the washer still does not fill when you run a test cycle.

How to Replace It

Unplug the washer from the wall outlet and shut off both hot and cold water supply valves completely to remove all power and water pressure before starting any work.
Pull the washer away from the wall far enough to reach the rear panel and water connections.
Place a shallow pan or towels under the inlet valve connections, then disconnect the hot and cold supply hoses from the valve using pliers or an adjustable wrench (some residual water will drain out).
Remove the rear access panel or console panel as required for your model by taking out the mounting screws (some models let you reach the valve from the back panel, others require removing the top or console).
Locate the inlet valve assembly (typically mounted at the top rear of the cabinet) and unplug both solenoid wire connectors from the valve.
Disconnect the internal hoses or quick-connect fittings leading from the valve into the washer tub, noting their orientation for reassembly.
Remove the screws or bracket holding the valve to the cabinet and lift the old valve assembly out.
Install the new inlet valve in the mounting bracket, reconnect the internal hoses in the same arrangement, plug in both solenoid connectors, and reattach the external supply hoses hand-tight plus a quarter turn with pliers.
Reinstall the access or console panel, push the washer back into place, turn on both supply valves, plug in the washer, and run a short test cycle to confirm normal fill and no leaks at the valve or hose connections.

The Part You Need

Part	Notes
Samsung water inlet valve	Amazon \| Common part numbers include DC97-15459H, DC97-15459G (which replaces older 3276197), and others depending on your exact model. Find your washer’s model and serial number on the label inside the door or on the back panel, then cross-reference that model number with a Samsung parts retailer or the manufacturer to get the correct valve for your machine.

If this part is failing you may also see one of these codes:

When to Call a Pro

If you measure 120 VAC at the valve solenoid terminals during a fill cycle (using a multimeter) but the valve still does not open, the valve itself is bad and you can replace it. If you find no voltage at the valve when a fill is commanded, the problem is upstream in the control board or wiring harness, and you should call a technician to diagnose the electrical fault. Also call a pro if you are not comfortable working with water connections, electrical plugs, or disassembling cabinet panels, or if the new valve does not solve the fill problem and further diagnostic work is needed.