Door latch switch
Common interlock fault part on appliance no-start errors.
Samsung range guide for C-10 oven sensor faults and F-22 calibration failures, including sensor resistance, wiring, reset, and board checks.
Samsung range guide for C-10 oven sensor faults and F-22 calibration failures, including sensor resistance, wiring, reset, and board checks.
Likely parts to price
Common interlock fault part on appliance no-start errors.
Higher-cost board to price after checking sensors and wiring.
Useful when faults follow intermittent connectors or communication errors.
If your Samsung range or oven is flashing C-10 or F-22 on the display, don’t panic. These are two of the most common error codes on Samsung ranges, and both are fixable with basic tools and a little patience. This guide covers what each code means, how to diagnose the root cause, and step-by-step instructions to get your oven baking again.
| Code | Meaning | Severity | DIY Fix? |
|---|---|---|---|
| C-10 | Oven temperature sensor (thermistor) open circuit | Moderate | Usually |
| F-22 | Calibration data corrupted / control board fault | Moderate to High | Sometimes |
C-10 (sometimes shown as C10 or C-10) means the oven temperature sensor — a thermistor — has failed or has an open circuit. The control board can’t read the oven temp, so it shuts down the heating elements for safety. This is essentially a dead sensor or a broken wire going to it.
F-22 means the oven calibration data has become corrupted, or the main control board has developed an internal fault. It’s less common than C-10 but can be more frustrating because it sometimes comes back after a simple reset.
A full power cycle clears transient errors and may clear an F-22 calibration glitch.
If C-10 or F-22 is gone for good, you’re done. If it comes back, move to Fix 2.
The oven sensor looks like a metal probe about 4–6 inches long mounted in the back wall of the oven cavity. It connects to the control board with two wires.
You’ll need a multimeter for this step.
If you get OL (open loop) or 0, the sensor is dead and needs replacement. If the reading is out of range (under 900Ω or over 1300Ω at room temp), the sensor is drifting and should be replaced.
When you’re ready to buy a replacement, grab a Samsung oven temperature sensor (thermistor).
If the sensor tested bad, swapping it takes about 15 minutes.
This is the most common fix for C-10. If the new sensor doesn’t clear the code, the issue might be in the wire harness or the control board itself.
If F-22 appeared after a power outage or surge, the calibration data may have been scrambled. Here’s how to factory recalibrate:
Not all Samsung range models expose calibration through the touchpad. If this sequence doesn’t work, check your user manual for the exact procedure.
If you’ve done Fixes 1–4 and C-10 or F-22 keeps coming back, the main control board (PCB) may be faulty. This is the last resort and costs around $100–$250 for the part.
Control board swaps require some confidence with wiring. If you’re not comfortable, call a technician.
If the C-10 or F-22 code persists after replacing the sensor and checking the wiring, the issue is likely on the control board. At that point, weigh the cost of a service call (around $150–$250 + parts) against the value of your range. An experienced tech can run diagnostics you can’t do at home.