Temperature sensor
Common error-code part. Confirm resistance and connector style.
Rheem RP20 guide for LED flash codes, EcoNet thermostat faults, pressure switches, sensors, reversing-valve issues, and refrigerant diagnostics.
Rheem RP20 guide for LED flash codes, EcoNet thermostat faults, pressure switches, sensors, reversing-valve issues, and refrigerant diagnostics.
Likely parts to price
Common error-code part. Confirm resistance and connector style.
Useful to price for temperature-reading faults.
Low-cost safety part for heat and no-start symptoms.
The Rheem Prestige RP20 is one of the most capable residential heat pumps on the market — a variable-speed, communicating unit designed for maximum comfort and efficiency. But when something goes wrong, it speaks in flash codes and fault numbers that can be confusing to decipher. This guide covers every major RP20 error code so you can diagnose the problem fast.
The Rheem Prestige RP20 uses two parallel fault-reporting systems: LED flash codes on the control board inside the unit, and alphanumeric fault codes displayed on a compatible communicating thermostat (such as the Rheem EcoNet Smart Thermostat or the Prestige IAQ touchscreen). If you have a non-communicating thermostat, you’ll need to read the LED blinks on the control board directly.
On the RP20 outdoor unit, locate the diagnostic LED on the control board (visible through the service panel). Count the number of flashes in a sequence, then pause, then count again. The pattern tells you the fault category.
The unit is powered and in standby. No fault present. If you see this and the unit still won’t run, check thermostat demand signals and wiring continuity.
The high-pressure switch tripped. This typically means refrigerant pressure on the discharge side exceeded safe limits.
Causes:
Fix: Turn off the unit. Inspect the outdoor coil for debris — leaves, grass, and cottonwood are frequent offenders. Clean with a hose at low pressure. If the coil is clean, call a licensed tech; overcharge and TXV problems require refrigerant tools.
The low-pressure switch tripped, indicating insufficient refrigerant pressure on the suction side.
Causes:
Fix: Start by replacing the air filter and checking indoor airflow. If airflow is fine and fault persists, suspect a refrigerant leak. This requires a certified HVAC technician to locate the leak, repair it, and recharge.
This code appears when the defrost cycle fails to initiate or terminate correctly. In heating mode, frost builds on the outdoor coil; the defrost board is supposed to manage it automatically.
Causes:
Fix: Check the defrost thermostat resistance with a multimeter. It should show continuity when cold and open when warm. If the reversing valve is suspect, you’ll hear a “click” when it’s commanded — silence indicates solenoid or valve failure.
The outdoor ambient temperature sensor has failed or its circuit is open.
Fix: Locate the sensor on the outdoor coil tubing. Unplug the connector and test resistance across the two terminals with a multimeter. Compare to the temperature/resistance chart in the service manual. Out-of-spec readings mean sensor replacement. The sensor is inexpensive and a straightforward swap.
The indoor coil thermistor or suction line sensor has failed. This sensor helps the variable-speed compressor modulate capacity.
Fix: Access the indoor air handler. Locate the thermistor clipped to the refrigerant tubing. Test resistance. Replace if out of spec.
The unit experienced a compressor fault. This is a hard lockout — the unit shuts down to protect the compressor from damage.
Causes:
Fix: After a compressor lockout, wait 30 minutes before attempting a restart. Check supply voltage at the unit — it must be within ±10% of nameplate rating. If voltage is correct and the unit locks out again immediately, the inverter drive or compressor may require professional diagnosis.
The reversing valve solenoid failed to switch the system between heating and cooling mode.
Causes:
Fix: Test the solenoid coil with a multimeter — it should show 20–30Ω resistance. An open reading means the coil is burned out. A mechanically stuck valve requires a refrigerant system recover and valve replacement — a tech job.
If you use a communicating thermostat, you’ll see alphanumeric codes:
| Code | Meaning |
|---|---|
| E1 | Indoor coil sensor fault |
| E2 | Outdoor ambient sensor fault |
| E3 | Discharge line sensor fault |
| E4 | Suction line sensor fault |
| E5 | High pressure switch open |
| E6 | Low pressure switch open |
| E8 | Communication loss between indoor and outdoor units |
| HP | High pressure lockout |
| LP | Low pressure lockout |
| dF | Defrost cycle active (not a fault — normal operation) |
Code E8 — Communication Loss is one of the most common calls on communicating systems. Check:
| Part | Why You Need It | Approx. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Rheem RP20 Defrost Control Board | Controls defrost cycles; fails with 4-flash fault | $85–$150 |
| Heat Pump Outdoor Ambient Temperature Sensor | Triggers 5-flash fault when failed; inexpensive fix | $15–$40 |
| Reversing Valve Solenoid Coil | Replaces burned-out coil on 8-flash faults | $20–$55 |
| HVAC Multimeter with Temperature Probe | Essential for testing sensors, voltage, and continuity | $35–$120 |
| 18 AWG 2-Conductor Communication Wire | Fixes communication loss faults between indoor/outdoor | $15–$40 |
Need replacement parts? Search for parts and tools on Amazon.
Call a licensed HVAC technician immediately if:
The RP20 is a sophisticated variable-speed system. The control boards, inverter drive, and refrigerant system are not DIY-friendly. The sensors and wiring checks are — start there.
Q: My Rheem RP20 shows 2 flashes but the outdoor coil looks clean. What else should I check?
A: After verifying the coil is clean, check the condenser fan motor — if it’s spinning slowly or not at all, airflow drops and pressure spikes. Also check for refrigerant overcharge if the system was recently serviced. A tech can confirm overcharge with manifold gauge readings.
Q: The E8 communication fault keeps coming back after I reset it. What’s causing it?
A: Intermittent E8 faults are usually caused by a marginal connection in the communication wire, especially at the terminals on either board. Re-strip and re-terminate both ends of the wire. If that doesn’t solve it, check that the outdoor unit control board has clean, stable 24VAC power from its transformer. A sagging transformer voltage will cause intermittent communication dropouts.
Q: Can I reset a compressor lockout by simply cycling the breaker?
A: Yes, but wait at least 30 minutes after cycling power. The variable-speed compressor has built-in protection timers. Forcing a restart too quickly can cause repeated lockouts. If the unit locks out immediately after a proper restart, the fault is active and the underlying cause — high discharge temperature, low voltage, or inverter fault — needs to be diagnosed before forcing more restarts.
Q: What’s the difference between the Rheem RP20 and the Ruud RP20?
A: They’re functionally identical — Rheem and Ruud are sister brands manufactured by Paloma Industries. The control boards, sensors, fault codes, and parts are all interchangeable. Service manuals from either brand apply to both units.
Heat pump error codes often signal one of two problems: a defrost cycle failure or a refrigerant issue. If the auxiliary heat indicator on your thermostat is constantly on, the system is running in emergency heat mode — check for ice buildup on the outdoor unit. Heat pumps with communicating thermostats (Carrier Infinity, Bryant Evolution, Lennox iComfort) store detailed fault codes in the thermostat’s installer menu that aren’t shown to homeowners. Accessing these requires the installer code — typically found in the installation manual.
Defrost cycle: A normal defrost cycle lasts 5-15 minutes. If the outdoor unit stays iced up for more than 30 minutes with the system running, the defrost board, sensor, or thermostat has failed.