Maytag Washer d13 Error Code - Causes & Fix

Maytag Washer d13 Error Code — What It Means

A true “d13” error code does not appear in Maytag’s published fault-code lists for front-load or top-load HE washers. The display may be showing a drain-related code (dL, dU), a suds code (SD), a door/lid-lock fault (F3 E1), a drain-time fault (F9 E1), or another model-specific service code that looks similar. Maytag states that error codes vary by model family, so the first step is to confirm your exact model number and read the display carefully under good light. Codes that involve a “d” are most often tied to drain problems, suds buildup, or door-latch issues, depending on your washer platform.

Jump to Fix

Common Causes

• Misread display or transient fault The code may be dL, dU, SD, or another fault that looks like “d13” on the LED, or a one-time glitch that clears with a reset.
• Excess suds from non-HE detergent Too much detergent or regular (non-HE) soap creates foam that triggers drain or balance faults and can display suds-related codes.
• Kinked or clogged drain hose A bent, crushed, or debris-blocked drain hose prevents proper water evacuation and causes drain-time errors.
• Blocked pump filter or weak drain pump Coins, lint, or small items in the filter or pump housing restrict flow, and a failing pump cannot complete the drain cycle in the expected time.
• Closed water valves or kinked inlet hoses If the code relates to fill or balance, closed hot/cold valves, kinked supply hoses, or clogged inlet screens prevent proper water entry.
• Door or lid latch failure A misaligned, dirty, or broken door lock or lid switch can generate F# E# codes that include a “d” or “3” character on some model families.

Step-by-Step Fix

1. Verify the exact code and model number. Look at the display in good light and write down every character. Check your model tag (usually inside the door or on the top edge) and compare the code to your model’s manual or Maytag’s online lookup.
2. Reset the washer. Press Power/Cancel twice, or unplug the machine for five minutes, then plug it back in and start a rinse-and-spin cycle to see if the code was transient.
3. Check installation basics. Confirm both hot and cold water valves are fully open, inlet hoses are not kinked, the drain hose is not crushed or inserted more than 4.5 inches into the standpipe, and standpipe height is between 39 and 96 inches for front-load models.
4. Inspect for suds. Open the door and look for foam. If suds are visible, run a drain-and-spin or rinse-and-spin cycle without detergent to clear them, then switch to HE detergent and use less per load.
5. Clean the drain pump filter. Locate the filter access (usually behind a lower front panel on front-loaders or inside the tub on some top-loaders), place towels underneath, unscrew the filter, remove debris, rinse it, and reinstall.
6. Test the drain path. Disconnect the drain hose from the standpipe, place the end in a bucket, and run a drain cycle. If water flows freely, the blockage is in your home plumbing. If flow is weak or absent, inspect the pump housing and hoses for clogs.
7. Enter diagnostic mode (if equipped) and record the exact fault. Consult your service manual for the button sequence to access stored codes. Match the code to the tech sheet’s fault table, then follow the component test procedures for that specific code family.

Parts Often Needed

When to Call a Pro

Call a qualified appliance technician if the code persists after you have verified the display, completed a full reset, checked all hoses and valves, cleared suds, and cleaned the filter. Codes that return immediately often point to internal faults such as a failed motor-speed sensor, a shorted harness, a faulty control board, or a pressure-switch problem that requires schematic-level diagnosis and calibrated test equipment. If your washer is still under warranty or you are uncomfortable working with live 120 V circuits and water connections, professional service is the safest route.