Can I keep running the equipment with this fault active?

Generally no. Faults on Appliance units are emitted when a sensor, safety, or control circuit is outside its operating envelope. Running through an active fault risks compressor, heater, or control-board damage. Diagnose and clear the fault first.

What part is most commonly replaced for KitchenAid Refrigerator Running Constantly - Causes & Fix?

The most frequently replaced parts for KitchenAid Refrigerator Running Constantly - Causes & Fix are listed in the Parts Reference section of this guide with OEM part numbers and typical price ranges. Check the table for direct replacements.

Is KitchenAid Refrigerator Running Constantly - Causes & Fix a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Sensor swaps, fan motor replacements, and condenser cleaning are typical DIY-level repairs. Anything involving refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage (>240V) work requires a licensed technician for both safety and code-compliance reasons.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Running Constantly - Causes & Fix

Q: What does KitchenAid Refrigerator Running Constantly - Causes & Fix mean?

Usually caused by dirty condenser coils. Clean the coils at the back or bottom, check temperature settings, and inspect door seals.

Q: How do I fix KitchenAid Refrigerator Running Constantly - Causes & Fix?

Follow the step-by-step diagnosis below. The most likely fix is identified by checking power, sensor resistance, and control-board signals in order — using a multimeter and the part numbers documented in the parts reference table.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Running Constantly — What’s Happening

A KitchenAid refrigerator running constantly means the compressor and cooling system are staying on because the cabinet is not reaching the thermostat’s target temperature, or the control system is not detecting a satisfied condition. This is a symptom, not a fault code. The unit is working overtime trying to cool down, either because something is blocking heat removal or warm air keeps entering the cabinet.

Jump to Fix

Most Likely Causes

Dirty condenser coils Dust and debris on the coils reduce heat rejection and force the compressor to run much longer to maintain temperature.
Temperature controls set too cold Setting the controls lower than necessary extends run time as the unit tries to reach an unnecessarily cold target.
Poor door seal or warm air infiltration Worn or damaged door gaskets allow warm air to enter continuously, preventing the refrigerator from satisfying the thermostat.
Evaporator coil iced over from defrost failure A failed defrost heater or defrost thermostat allows ice to build up on the evaporator, blocking airflow and keeping the unit from cooling properly.
Evaporator fan not running or airflow blocked If the evaporator fan motor fails or airflow is obstructed, cold air cannot circulate and the compressor runs constantly trying to compensate.
Faulty thermistor or temperature sensor A bad sensor can send false warm readings to the control board, telling the compressor to keep running even when the cabinet is cold.
Main control board or start relay issue A failing control board may not recognize satisfied temperature conditions, or a bad start relay can affect compressor cycling behavior.

How to Diagnose and Fix

Verify the actual cabinet temperatures with a separate thermometer (refrigerator should be 37-40°F, freezer 0-5°F) to confirm whether the unit is truly warm or just running long.
Check the temperature control settings and reset them to the middle or manufacturer-recommended position if they are set too low.
Unplug the refrigerator and clean the condenser coils thoroughly at the back or bottom of the unit, then check that the condenser fan spins freely and airflow is not blocked.
Inspect all door gaskets for tears, gaps, or poor sealing and confirm the doors close fully and latch properly.
Open the freezer and listen for the evaporator fan running, then check the evaporator coil for heavy frost or ice buildup behind the rear panel.
If the evaporator is iced over, test the defrost heater for continuity and check the defrost thermostat or bimetal for proper operation per the tech sheet.
Check that the evaporator fan motor runs when the door is closed (use the door switch) and that airflow paths inside the cabinet are not blocked by food or ice.
If all mechanical checks pass and the unit still runs constantly, perform a power reset by unplugging for 5-10 minutes, then evaluate the thermistors and main control board using the model’s wiring diagram and resistance specs.

Parts You Might Need

Part	Notes
Condenser coil brush or vacuum attachment	Amazon \| For cleaning dust and debris from coils
Refrigerator door gasket	Amazon \| Model-specific, check part number by model
Defrost heater	Amazon \| If evaporator is iced over and heater shows no continuity
Evaporator fan motor	Amazon \| If fan does not run or is noisy

If your appliance also shows a code on the display, these match this problem:

When to Call a Pro

Call a technician if you have cleaned the coils and checked the door seals but the refrigerator still runs constantly and the cabinet remains warm. Diagnosing and replacing thermistors, the main control board, the start relay, or the compressor requires a multimeter, the service manual, and refrigerant handling in some cases. If the evaporator is heavily iced and you are not comfortable accessing the defrost components behind the freezer panel, a professional can safely test and replace the defrost heater and thermostat.