KitchenAid Oven Broiler Not Working — What’s Happening
When the broiler is not working on a KitchenAid oven, the broil circuit is not energizing the broil element at the top of the cavity on electric models, so the element does not heat or glow. On gas models, the broiler burner is not lighting because the igniter, gas valve circuit, or related wiring is failing. KitchenAid specifies that if the oven door is open, the broil element will not come on, and if the door is opened during broiling, the element turns off immediately and resumes when the door is closed.
This is a symptom diagnosis, not a fault code. KitchenAid does not publish a single broiler-not-working error code for this complaint. The official first checks are whether the door is fully closed and the control is actually set to BROIL.
Most Likely Causes
- Door not fully closed KitchenAid ovens will not energize the broil element if the door is not completely closed or if door interlock logic prevents operation.
- Incorrect control selection Broil mode is not actually selected, or the wrong temperature setting is chosen where applicable.
- Burned-out broil element On electric models, a failed element typically shows no red glow, visible blistering, or breaks.
- Failed control board or relay The control or relay board is not sending line voltage to the broil element.
- Faulty wiring or connectors Wiring between the control, harness, and element has burned terminals or frayed insulation.
- Weak or failing igniter (gas models) On gas ovens, the igniter or related gas ignition components can prevent flame at the broiler.
How to Diagnose and Fix
- Verify the complaint by confirming whether your model is electric or gas and whether the failure is total no-heat, intermittent, or weak broil.
- Check that the door is closed all the way and that the control is set to BROIL mode.
- Shut off the breaker and disconnect power to the appliance before any disassembly or testing.
- Inspect the broil element visually for burn marks, breaks, or no discoloration when broil is called for on electric models.
- Test the broil element electrically for continuity and resistance. If it is open, replace it.
- Check voltage at the element circuit when broil is commanded. If correct voltage is present but the element does not heat, the element is bad. If voltage is absent, move upstream to the relay board, wiring, or controls.
- Inspect wiring terminals and harnesses for overheating, loose spade connections, or damaged insulation.
- For gas broilers, have a qualified technician test the igniter and associated ignition circuit. If the igniter is weak or not drawing properly, replace the igniter or related ignition parts.
Parts You Might Need
| Part | Notes |
|---|---|
| Broil element | Amazon | For electric models when element shows no glow or tests open. |
| Oven control board or relay board | Amazon | When the board is not switching power to the element. |
| Wiring harness, terminals, and connectors | Amazon | Replace damaged or burned wire runs and spade terminals. |
Related Error Codes
If your appliance also shows a code on the display, these match this problem:
- Kitchenaid Oven A6 error code
- Kitchenaid Oven Ab error code
- Kitchenaid Oven Cal error code
- Kitchenaid Oven F6 E0 error code
- Kitchenaid Oven F6 E1 error code
- Kitchenaid Oven F6 E2 error code
- Kitchenaid Oven F6 E3 error code
- Kitchenaid Oven F6 E4 error code
- Kitchenaid Oven F6 E5 error code
- Kitchenaid Oven F6 E6 error code
- Kitchenaid Oven F6 E7 error code
- Kitchenaid Oven F6 E8 error code
When to Call a Pro
Call a pro if you are not comfortable working with line voltage, if you have a gas model requiring igniter or burner work, or if you have verified the broil element and wiring are good but the control board or relay is suspected. Gas ignition diagnostics and control board replacement both require experience with appliance circuits and safe disassembly of the range or wall oven. For gas line, burner, or igniter work, or if you ever smell gas, stop and call a licensed technician.