How do I fix KitchenAid Oven Broil Element Replacement - Signs & How-To?

Follow the step-by-step diagnosis below. The most likely fix is identified by checking power, sensor resistance, and control-board signals in order — using a multimeter and the part numbers documented in the parts reference table.

Can I keep running the equipment with this fault active?

Generally no. Faults on Appliance units are emitted when a sensor, safety, or control circuit is outside its operating envelope. Running through an active fault risks compressor, heater, or control-board damage. Diagnose and clear the fault first.

What part is most commonly replaced for KitchenAid Oven Broil Element Replacement - Signs & How-To?

The most frequently replaced parts for KitchenAid Oven Broil Element Replacement - Signs & How-To are listed in the Parts Reference section of this guide with OEM part numbers and typical price ranges. Check the table for direct replacements.

Is KitchenAid Oven Broil Element Replacement - Signs & How-To a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Sensor swaps, fan motor replacements, and condenser cleaning are typical DIY-level repairs. Anything involving refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage (>240V) work requires a licensed technician for both safety and code-compliance reasons.

KitchenAid Oven Broil Element Replacement - Signs & How-To

Q: What does KitchenAid Oven Broil Element Replacement - Signs & How-To mean?

Broil element won't glow, broken or blistered coil, oven won't heat in broil mode, or burned terminals. Replacing the upper heating element restores broiling.

KitchenAid Oven Broil Element Replacement — What This Part Does

The broil element is the top electric heating element in your KitchenAid oven. It energizes during broil mode to deliver high direct heat for browning and cooking food from above. Over time, repeated high-heat cycles cause the element coil to age, weaken, and eventually burn out or develop an open circuit.

When the element fails, the oven loses broil function completely or heats unevenly. Burned or loose wire terminals at the element spades can also interrupt power even if the coil itself looks intact. Element burnout is normal wear, not a control board fault code, and replacement is a straightforward swap once you access the rear wall of the oven cavity.

Jump to Replacement Steps

Signs It Needs Replacing

Broil element does not glow or heat at all You select broil mode and the top element stays cold and dark, indicating an open circuit in the element coil.
Visible break, crack, or blister in the element coil The metal coil shows physical damage, separation, or bubbling where the internal wire has failed.
Oven heats unevenly or only in bake mode Bake works fine but broil does not reach temperature or browns food poorly because the upper element is dead.
Burned, scorched, or discolored wire terminals The push-on connectors or spade ends at the element show heat damage, arcing, or melted insulation.
Element glows in spots but not fully Part of the coil lights up red but sections stay dark, signaling internal breaks or high-resistance areas in the element.
Multimeter shows open or infinite resistance Testing the element with a meter gives no continuity reading, confirming the heating coil is open and must be replaced.

How to Replace It

Shut off power to the range at the circuit breaker or unplug the appliance completely before starting any work.
Open the oven door and locate the broil element mounted to the top rear wall of the oven cavity.
Remove the screws or brackets securing the element to the oven wall, typically two hex or Phillips screws at the front face.
Carefully pull the element forward a few inches so the rear terminals are accessible, supporting it to prevent the wires from falling back behind the wall.
Disconnect the push-on wire connectors from the element terminals, noting which wire goes to which spade or taking a photo for reference.
Inspect the wire ends and terminals for burn marks, discoloration, or damage and replace any damaged connectors or wire sections.
Test the old element with a multimeter set to resistance or continuity to confirm it is open (infinite ohms means failed).
Install the new broil element by sliding the terminals through the rear wall holes and reconnecting the wires to the correct spades.
Secure the element with the original mounting screws or brackets, restore power at the breaker, and test broil mode to verify the element glows evenly and reaches full heat.

The Part You Need

Part	Notes
Broil element (upper oven heating element)	Amazon \| Common KitchenAid part numbers include W11238400, W10804429, WPW10207400, W10856603, WP9760774, WP9760771, WP9760767, WP9757341, WPW10535127, WP7406P493-60, W10317476, and W11321472. Find your exact part number on the model and serial plate inside the oven door frame or on the front frame when the door is open, then cross-reference with a parts supplier by your full model number.

If this part is failing you may also see one of these codes:

When to Call a Pro

If you have tested the new element for continuity and it reads good but still does not heat during broil mode, the fault lies upstream in the selector switch, relay, or control board and you should call a technician to trace voltage and diagnose the control circuit. Also call a pro if you are uncomfortable working with line-voltage wiring, if the element mounting hardware is damaged or rusted and requires rear-panel removal, or if local code requires a licensed electrician for any hardwired range repair work. For gas line, burner, or igniter work, or if you ever smell gas, stop and call a licensed technician.