KitchenAid FAE5 Error Code - Causes & Fix

KitchenAid FAE5 Error Code — What It Means

The FAE5 code appears when your KitchenAid dishwasher ends the cycle, drains the tub, and displays the fault on the control panel. KitchenAid’s official guidance treats this as a general error state rather than pointing to one specific failed component. The code is equivalent to F10E5 on many Whirlpool-platform dishwashers. Field experience shows FAE5 most often appears when water collects in the base pan under the dishwasher and triggers the flood sensor or leak-detection float switch.

The fault can also result from oversudsing, drain-hose backflow, or a wiring problem between the leak sensor and the control board. KitchenAid’s first recommended action is to press Cancel twice and start a new cycle to clear the code. If it returns immediately or after the next wash, you need to inspect the base for standing water and trace any leak to its source.

Jump to Fix

Common Causes

• Water in the base pan A leak from the inlet valve, door seal, pump, or hose connections fills the drip tray and activates the flood sensor.
• Oversudsing from wrong detergent Using hand-dish soap or too much rinse aid creates foam that spills into the base and triggers the leak switch.
• Drain-hose backflow or siphon Missing high loop or air gap allows sink water to flow back into the dishwasher base or sump area.
• Faulty flood sensor or float switch The base leak detector sticks in the triggered position even when dry, sending a false signal to the control board.
• Loose or corroded wiring Damaged connectors or broken wires between the flood switch and main control board report an intermittent fault.
• Failed main control board The board misreads normal sensor input or has internal memory corruption that logs FAE5 without a real leak.

Step-by-Step Fix

1. Press Cancel twice on the control panel and start a new wash cycle to reset the error, following KitchenAid’s official first step.
2. Turn off power at the breaker for 60 seconds if the code returns, then restore power and run another test cycle to clear any transient board fault.
3. Remove the lower kickplate or toe panel and inspect the base pan under the tub for standing water, using a flashlight and towel to check all corners.
4. Dry the base completely if water is present, tipping the unit slightly if needed, then let it air out for 30 minutes before retesting to see if the sensor resets.
5. Trace the leak source by checking the water-inlet fitting at the front left, all hose clamps on the sump and pump, the door gasket for tears, and the tub seals around the sump connection.
6. Verify the drain-hose installation by confirming a high loop at least 32 inches above the floor or an air gap at the sink, and check that the hose end is not submerged in standing water.
7. Inspect the flood sensor and wiring by locating the float or leak switch in the base pan, pulling its connector, checking for corrosion, and testing continuity to the control board if the code persists after drying.
8. Replace the faulty part only after confirming which component failed: install a new flood sensor if it stays closed when dry, or replace the main control board if all wiring and sensors test normal and the code returns every cycle.

Parts Often Needed

When to Call a Pro

Call a technician if you cannot locate the source of the leak after drying the base and running a test cycle, or if the code returns immediately even when the base pan is bone dry and all hoses are tight. A pro has the service manual, wiring diagrams, and meters to test the flood-sensor circuit and control-board communication paths. Also call for help if you are uncomfortable working around 120‑volt wiring or tipping the dishwasher to access the base pan and pump connections.