Can I keep running the equipment with this fault active?

Generally no. Faults on Appliance units are emitted when a sensor, safety, or control circuit is outside its operating envelope. Running through an active fault risks compressor, heater, or control-board damage. Diagnose and clear the fault first.

What part is most commonly replaced for KitchenAid Dishwasher Door Latch/Lock Assembly Replacement?

The most frequently replaced parts for KitchenAid Dishwasher Door Latch/Lock Assembly Replacement are listed in the Parts Reference section of this guide with OEM part numbers and typical price ranges. Check the table for direct replacements.

Is KitchenAid Dishwasher Door Latch/Lock Assembly Replacement a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Sensor swaps, fan motor replacements, and condenser cleaning are typical DIY-level repairs. Anything involving refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage (>240V) work requires a licensed technician for both safety and code-compliance reasons.

KitchenAid Dishwasher Door Latch/Lock Assembly Replacement

Q: What does KitchenAid Dishwasher Door Latch/Lock Assembly Replacement mean?

Won't start, lights flash, or door won't stay closed? Bad latch/lock assembly prevents the control from confirming door closure. Replacing it restores the cycle.

Q: How do I fix KitchenAid Dishwasher Door Latch/Lock Assembly Replacement?

Follow the step-by-step diagnosis below. The most likely fix is identified by checking power, sensor resistance, and control-board signals in order — using a multimeter and the part numbers documented in the parts reference table.

KitchenAid Dishwasher Door Latch/Lock Assembly Replacement — What This Part Does

The door latch/lock assembly serves two jobs: it mechanically latches the door shut and houses the electrical switch that signals the control board that the door is closed. On KitchenAid dishwashers the latch assembly is a single unit containing the mechanical latch mechanism and the switch contacts. When the door closes the latch engages a strike catch on the tub frame and the internal switch closes the circuit to allow the control to start the wash cycle.

The assembly fails when the internal switch contacts wear out, the plastic latch body cracks, or the moving parts inside seize or break. Because the latch is not serviceable you replace the entire assembly when it goes bad. A damaged or misaligned strike catch on the tub can also prevent the latch from engaging fully, and loose door panel screws or a worn hinge can cause misalignment that keeps the latch from seating properly.

Jump to Replacement Steps

Signs It Needs Replacing

Dishwasher won’t start or cycle stops mid-wash The control cannot confirm a door-closed condition so the safety interlock prevents operation or halts the cycle.
Door won’t stay latched or pops open The latch mechanism is broken or worn so the door cannot engage the strike catch and hold shut.
Control panel lights flash or show an error code The control detects that the latch switch is not reporting proper door closure even when you close the door firmly.
Door handle feels loose or handle lever doesn’t spring back Internal latch springs or linkage have broken so the handle action is abnormal and the latch does not engage.
Clicking or grinding noise when closing the door Worn or broken latch parts bind or rub instead of engaging smoothly with the strike.
Door closes but cycle still won’t start The mechanical latch may engage but the internal electrical switch contacts are failed or corroded so the control sees an open circuit.

How to Replace It

Turn off power to the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and confirm it is off.
Open the dishwasher door and use a T-15 Torx driver to remove all perimeter screws securing the inner door panel to the outer panel, noting that some top screws may be longer than the others and must return to their original locations.
Carefully separate the inner panel from the outer door to expose the latch assembly and wiring harness on the inner door or console area.
Locate the door latch assembly and unplug the wiring harness connector, releasing any locking tabs on the connector.
Remove the screws or release the mounting tabs that secure the old latch assembly to the door panel and lift the assembly out.
Inspect the strike catch on the tub frame for cracks, wear, or damage and replace the strike if it is bent or broken.
Position the new latch assembly into the mounting location, ensuring any tabs lock into place, and secure it with screws if applicable.
Plug the wiring harness connector onto the new latch assembly and verify it seats fully with the locking tab engaged.
Reassemble the inner and outer door panels, threading all T-15 Torx screws into their correct original positions and tightening them evenly around the perimeter.
Restore power at the breaker, close the door firmly to verify the latch engages positively, and run a short cycle to confirm the dishwasher recognizes door closure and operates normally.

The Part You Need

Part	Notes
Door latch/lock assembly	Amazon \| Common part numbers for KitchenAid dishwashers include W11412299, WPW10653840, W10653840, W10574864, and 8193830. Find your exact part number on the model and serial plate located on the door edge or inner tub lip and cross-reference it with your appliance parts supplier.

If this part is failing you may also see one of these codes:

When to Call a Pro

If you’ve replaced the latch assembly and verified the strike catch is intact but the dishwasher still will not recognize door closure, the problem may be in the wiring harness between the door and the control board or in the control board itself. Tracing door-switch circuit continuity and testing connections at the control requires disassembly of the console and diagnostic tools. Also call a pro if the door is badly misaligned from hinge damage or if you find pinched or broken wires in the door harness that require splicing or connector replacement.