Kenmore Washer Lid Switch Replacement - Signs & How-To

Kenmore Washer Lid Switch Replacement — What This Part Does

The lid switch is a safety interlock that sits inside the cabinet and gets pressed by a lever or strike when you close the lid. When it closes, the control board allows the motor to agitate and spin. The switch must close every cycle, so after thousands of cycles the internal contacts wear, the plastic actuator bosses crack, or the mounting tabs break.

When the switch fails or the actuator lever no longer presses it correctly, the washer thinks the lid is open and refuses to spin or drain. Some models will stop mid-cycle. The switch is an electrical device rated at 125–250 V, 50–60 Hz, 1/2 HP, and uses a 3-flat-terminal plug with a harness that runs to the main control.

Jump to Replacement Steps

Signs It Needs Replacing

• Washer will not spin or drain The machine fills and agitates but stops before the spin cycle because the control cannot verify that the lid is closed.
• Cycle stops when you release the lid The washer pauses or shuts off immediately when the lid lifts, indicating that the switch is open or intermittent.
• No response when you close the lid You hear no click or relay sound when the lid shuts, showing that the switch is not changing state.
• Cracked or loose switch housing The plastic bracket or mounting bosses that hold the switch are broken or the switch moves when you press the actuator lever.
• Broken or bent actuator lever The lever that the lid strike presses is snapped off, bent away, or missing so the switch never closes.
• Corroded or loose harness connector The wiring plug at the switch shows green corrosion, backed-out pins, or a broken wire near the hinge area.

How to Replace It

1. Unplug the washer from the wall outlet and turn off both hot and cold water supply valves behind the machine.
2. Release the console by removing the end screws or prying the plastic clips on each side, then tilt the console back or lift it off the cabinet.
3. Locate the lid switch assembly mounted inside the cabinet near the hinge area and disconnect the 3-wire harness plug by pressing the locking tab and pulling straight off.
4. Inspect the lid strike or actuator arm on the underside of the lid to confirm it is not broken or bent and that it aligns with the switch lever when you close the lid.
5. Remove the old lid switch by releasing the mounting tabs, unscrewing any retaining screws, or pressing the locking clips that hold the switch to the cabinet bracket.
6. Install the new lid switch assembly into the same mounting position, pressing the tabs or tightening screws until the switch is firm and does not move when you press the lever.
7. Reconnect the 3-wire harness plug to the new switch, making sure the locking tab clicks and the terminals are fully seated.
8. Reattach any cabinet ground wire if one was clipped to the old switch bracket.
9. Lower the console back into position and secure the end screws or snap the clips until the console is flush and does not rattle, then plug in the washer and turn on the water valves.

The Part You Need

Related Error Codes

If this part is failing you may also see one of these codes:

• Kenmore Washer E14 error code
• Kenmore Washer E24 error code
• Kenmore Washer F0 E2 error code
• Kenmore Washer F0 E4 error code
• Kenmore Washer F1 E1 error code
• Kenmore Washer F5 E1 error code
• Kenmore Washer F9 E1 error code

When to Call a Pro

If you find cracked or broken plastic bosses in the cabinet itself, or if the lid hinge is damaged and the strike does not line up with the new switch, the cabinet or lid may need structural repair or replacement. If the washer still will not spin after you install a new switch and verify the actuator alignment, the main control board or wiring harness may be faulty and a technician with a schematic and multimeter should diagnose the circuit.