What does Best Furnace Igniter Replacement mean?

Furnace not igniting? Here's how to identify your igniter type, the best universal replacements by brand, and how to swap one in 15 minutes.

How do I fix Best Furnace Igniter Replacement?

Follow the step-by-step diagnosis below. The most likely fix is identified by checking power, sensor resistance, and control-board signals in order — using a multimeter and the part numbers documented in the parts reference table.

Can I keep running the equipment with this fault active?

Generally no. Faults on Furnace units are emitted when a sensor, safety, or control circuit is outside its operating envelope. Running through an active fault risks compressor, heater, or control-board damage. Diagnose and clear the fault first.

What part is most commonly replaced for Best Furnace Igniter Replacement?

The most frequently replaced parts for Best Furnace Igniter Replacement are listed in the Parts Reference section of this guide with OEM part numbers and typical price ranges. Check the table for direct replacements.

Is Best Furnace Igniter Replacement a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Sensor swaps, fan motor replacements, and condenser cleaning are typical DIY-level repairs. Anything involving refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage (>240V) work requires a licensed technician for both safety and code-compliance reasons.

Best Furnace Igniter Replacement — Universal and Brand-Specific Picks

A failed hot surface igniter is the #1 reason furnaces don’t start. The igniter glows red-hot to light the gas burners. When it cracks or burns out, you get no heat — and usually an error code.

The fix is almost always a $15–$60 part and 15 minutes of work. No HVAC certification required.

How to Know If Your Igniter Failed

Your furnace will usually show one of these signs:

Error code on furnace control board: Common igniter-related codes:
- Carrier: Code 14 (ignition lockout)
- Goodman/Amana: 6 flashes (pressure switch) or no ignition attempt
- Trane/American Standard: 3 flashes (pressure switch) or 4 flashes (open high limit)
- Lennox: Error 225 (ignition proving failure), Error 231 (lockout)
- Rheem/Ruud: 5 flashes (flame sensor — often related to igniter)
Furnace attempts to start (inducer runs, you hear click/hum) but no ignition and it shuts off
Visual crack in the igniter element — remove and inspect

Quick test with a multimeter: Set to resistance (Ohms). Disconnect the igniter wires and probe both terminals.

Normal reading: 40–200 Ω depending on type (see table below)
Open circuit (OL/infinity): Igniter is burned out — replace it

Igniter Types: Which One Do You Have?

Most residential furnaces use one of three igniter styles:

Type	Shape	Typical resistance	Common brands
Silicon nitride (Si3N4)	Flat rectangular or curved rod	15–50 Ω	Carrier, Bryant, Lennox, Trane
Silicon carbide (SiC)	Forked or fragile flat wafer	40–200 Ω	Older Goodman, Amana, Rheem (pre-2010)
Flat silicon nitride (newer)	Small rectangular, surface-mount style	10–30 Ω	York, Rheem, most post-2015 furnaces

To identify yours: Look at the igniter shape. Silicon carbide (older) is more fragile and dark gray/black. Silicon nitride (newer) is a single white/tan rod or curved element. Most furnaces made after 2010 use silicon nitride.

OEM part number lookup: Check your furnace’s model and serial number (data plate inside the furnace door) and cross-reference the part number.

Universal vs OEM Igniters

Universal igniters fit multiple brands and models. They cost $15–$45 and work well in most applications.

OEM igniters are made for your exact model. They cost $35–$100 but eliminate any fit guesswork.

Rule of thumb:

If your furnace is under 10 years old and still under warranty — use OEM to avoid voiding the warranty
If your furnace is 10+ years old — universal igniters work fine and cost half as much

Best Igniters by Brand

Carrier, Bryant, Payne

OEM part: Carrier HH18HA499 / HKSG01WC001 Best universal fit: Robertshaw 41-404 silicon nitride igniter

Fits Carrier, Bryant, Payne, Comfortmaker furnaces 2000–present
Silicon nitride construction — longer life than SiC
Typical price: $25–$40

Goodman, Amana, Daikin

OEM part: Goodman 0130F00008S Best universal fit: Supplying Demand B1401015S igniter

Fits Goodman, Amana, Daikin manufactured furnaces 2005–present
Replaces SiC units with upgraded silicon nitride
Typical price: $18–$35

Trane, American Standard

OEM part: Trane IGN00011 / American Standard IGN00011 Best universal fit: White-Rodgers / Emerson Q3400A1024 silicon carbide igniter

Fits Trane, American Standard, RunTru furnaces
Older Trane models use silicon carbide — verify by resistance check
Typical price: $30–$55

Lennox

OEM part: Lennox 13F37 / SureLight igniter Best replacement: Lennox 13F37 OEM igniter (OEM recommended for Lennox — universal fit can be tricky on some models)

Lennox SureLight furnaces use a proprietary silicon nitride design
Typical price: $35–$65

Rheem, Ruud, Weather King

OEM part: Rheem 62-24140-04 / SP20166B Best universal fit: Supplying Demand SP20166B igniter

Fits most Rheem, Ruud, WeatherKing, and Richmond furnaces 2000–present
Typical price: $20–$40

York, Coleman, Luxaire (Bosch)

OEM part: York 025-32625-000 Best fit: Emerson/White Rodgers 767A-369 igniter

Fits York, Coleman, Luxaire, Champion manufactured furnaces
Silicon nitride flat style
Typical price: $22–$38

Nordyne (Frigidaire, Gibson, Westinghouse, Tappan furnaces)

OEM part: Nordyne 624631 Best fit: Nordyne 624631 igniter or Ceramic Igniter 624631B

Fits Frigidaire, Gibson, Westinghouse, Tappan, and Nordyne-manufactured furnaces
Typical price: $20–$40

How to Replace a Furnace Igniter

Time: 10–20 minutes Tools: Screwdriver (usually 5/16” or 1/4” hex), needle-nose pliers optional Skill level: Basic DIY — no special certification required

Steps

Turn off power to the furnace — flip the furnace switch (usually on the wall near the unit) or kill the breaker. Do not skip this.
Turn off gas — turn the gas shutoff valve (90° from the pipe = off).
Remove the furnace door(s) — lower panel first on most models, then upper.
Locate the igniter — it’s in the burner compartment, near the burners. Follows the gas manifold. You’ll see a ceramic element connected by two wires.
Photograph the wire routing — before you disconnect anything, take a photo. This is your reference for reassembly.
Disconnect the igniter harness — unplug the 2-wire connector. If there’s no quick-connect, note which wires go where (polarity doesn’t matter for igniters — they’re not polarized).
Remove the igniter — usually held by one or two screws (5/16” hex driver). Slide it out carefully. Silicon carbide igniters are brittle — don’t touch the element.
Install the new igniter — slide in the new unit, align to the mounting bracket, and secure the screw(s). Do not overtighten — you’ll crack a silicon carbide igniter.
⚠️ Important: Do not touch the igniter element with bare hands. Skin oils reduce igniter life. Handle by the ceramic bracket only.
Reconnect the harness — plug back in, route the wires away from the burner flame path.
Reinstall furnace doors — upper panel first, then lower. The door switch must engage or the furnace won’t run.
Restore gas and power — turn gas back on first, then flip the power switch.
Test cycle — set thermostat 5° above room temp. Watch through the sight glass. You should see the igniter glow orange/red within 30 seconds, followed by the burners lighting within another 5–10 seconds.

How Long Do Igniters Last?

Silicon nitride: 5–10 years typical
Silicon carbide: 3–5 years typical
What kills them early: Touching the element (oil from skin), voltage spikes, cracking from vibration

If you’re replacing an igniter for the second time in 3 years, check your furnace’s voltage supply. A voltage spike above 125V will shorten igniter life significantly.