What does Amana Dryer F31 Error Code - Causes & Fix mean?

F31 means L2 low or no line voltage: one side of your 240V supply is missing. Most often a tripped breaker or loose power cord.

How do I fix Amana Dryer F31 Error Code - Causes & Fix?

Follow the step-by-step diagnosis below. The most likely fix is identified by checking power, sensor resistance, and control-board signals in order — using a multimeter and the part numbers documented in the parts reference table.

Can I keep running the equipment with F31 active?

Generally no. Faults on Appliance units are emitted when a sensor, safety, or control circuit is outside its operating envelope. Running through an active fault risks compressor, heater, or control-board damage. Diagnose and clear the fault first.

What part is most commonly replaced for Amana Dryer F31 Error Code - Causes & Fix?

The most frequently replaced parts for Amana Dryer F31 Error Code - Causes & Fix are listed in the Parts Reference section of this guide with OEM part numbers and typical price ranges. Check the table for direct replacements.

Is Amana Dryer F31 Error Code - Causes & Fix a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Sensor swaps, fan motor replacements, and condenser cleaning are typical DIY-level repairs. Anything involving refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage (>240V) work requires a licensed technician for both safety and code-compliance reasons.

Amana Dryer F31 Error Code - Causes & Fix

Amana Dryer F31 Error Code — What It Means

The F31 code on an Amana electric dryer indicates L2 (line 2) low or no voltage. The control board is not seeing proper supply voltage on the second hot leg of your 240V circuit, so the heating element cannot be energized normally. This is not an airflow or vent restriction fault (that would be F30). Electric dryers require two household fuses or breakers to deliver full 240V power. When one side of the circuit is open or weak, the drum may still tumble but heat is lost and F31 appears.

Jump to Fix

Common Causes

Tripped or open breaker on one side of the 240V circuit Electric dryers use two household breakers or fuses, and if one leg trips or opens, you lose L2 voltage.
Blown fuse on one side of a two-fuse circuit If your home uses fuses instead of breakers, one fuse may have failed while the other remains intact.
Loose or improperly installed power cord The power cord connection at the dryer terminal block may be loose, corroded, or wired incorrectly.
Faulty outlet or house wiring The dryer outlet itself or the upstream house wiring may have a bad connection preventing full 240V from reaching the appliance.

Step-by-Step Fix

Turn off the dryer breaker completely and wait 1 full minute, then flip both sides of the double-pole breaker back on to reset the circuit.
Inspect the dryer power cord and terminal block. Unplug the dryer and remove the rear access panel to check that all three or four wires are tight and correctly terminated on the terminal block.
Check both household breakers or fuses. Confirm that both sides of the 240V dryer circuit are closed and not tripped, and replace any blown fuse.
Test the outlet voltage under no load. Use a multimeter to measure voltage between the two hot terminals of the dryer outlet (you should see close to 240V) and between each hot and neutral or ground (each should read close to 120V).
Run a timed dry cycle and monitor for 1 minute. Start a normal timed dry cycle and watch whether F31 reappears or the dryer heats properly.
Repair or replace the faulty supply-side component. Tighten loose connections, replace the power cord if damaged, reset or replace breakers or fuses, or call an electrician if house wiring or the outlet is at fault.
Retest the dryer. After correcting the supply problem, run a full cycle to confirm heat returns and the code does not come back.

Parts Often Needed

Part	Notes
Amana dryer power cord	Amazon \| 3-prong or 4-prong, match your outlet type and dryer terminal block configuration.
Dryer terminal block kit	Amazon \| If terminals are burned, loose, or corroded beyond cleaning.

When to Call a Pro

Call a licensed electrician if you measure incorrect voltage at the outlet, find burned or melted house wiring, or if both breakers are on but you still read less than 240V. Call an appliance technician if all supply-side voltage is correct under load, all connections are secure, and the F31 code still appears after a reset, since that points to an internal control board or wiring harness fault rather than a household power issue.